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Writer's pictureJuliet

To the Ovens! - Blue Cheese Soufflés and Brussels Sprouts Lardons

I blame Audrey Hepburn - I've never made a soufflé, never even contemplated a soufflé. I think I've only eaten maybe 2 soufflés at restaurants - both desserts. When I flipped through this book, I was going to play it safe and make one of my personal favorites, croque monsieur(seriously, if croque is on the menu, it will be in my belly...along with truffle fries, naturally), but my husband said "why don't you do the soufflé?

Channeling "Cooking Chef Ina," as my daughter calls Ina Garten, is always challenging - I don't have a chic Hamptons estate or friends that come over solely to set my table with fabulous flowers. My vegetables and eggs come from the store, not a farm stand that I've known the proprietors of since forever. I'm cooking a winter vegetable on the cusp of summer so there was no way to find them in one of California's ubiquitous farmer's markets. But, I have cheese, [relatively fresh] eggs [ok, the box says they are still good...I have no recollection of buying them], and bacon! Hopefully, it will turn out better than Audrey's!

 

Ingredients:

Soufflés:

3 TB butter, plus extra for greasing the dish/dishes

1/4 c. finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for sprinkling

3 TB flour

1 c. scalded milk

Salt & pepper

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Pinch of nutmeg

4 extra large egg yolks, at room temperature

3 oz "good" Roquefort cheese, chopped

5 extra large egg whites, at room temperature

1/8 tsp cream of tartar


Brussels Sprouts Lardons:

2 TB "good" olive oil

6 oz Italian pancetta or bacon, 1/4in diced

1 1/2 lbs Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half

3/4 tsp kosher salt

3/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper

3/4 c. golden raisins

1 3/4 c. chicken stock

 

***Note on Timing*** The Brussels sprouts can cook while the soufflés are in the oven, but trim/cut them first.

Preheat the oven to 400F. Butter the inside of an 8 cup soufflé dish (7.5 inches in diameter, 3.25 inches deep) and sprinkle evenly with Parmesan. [If, like me, you don't have a dish for every occasion, I'm using the largest individual sized ramekins I have.] Put into the refrigerator until ready to fill. [Note: Ina doesn't give instructions on how to scald milk - just heat on the stove to *almost* bubbling - 180-185F. Set to the side off the heat while you make the roux.]


Scalding milk!

Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. With a wooden spoon, stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Off the heat, whisk in the scalded milk, 1/2 tsp salt [Note: I'd cut this back to 1/4 tsp], 1/4 tsp black pepper, the cayenne, and the nutmeg. Cook over low heat, whisking constantly, for 1 minute, until smooth and thick.

[Note: Ina doesn't temper the eggs, I did - to make sure that I didn't end up with scrambled eggs! It's super easy - take a spoonful of the hot mixture and whisk it into the bowl with the egg yolks, then do the same with another spoonful.] Off the heat, while still hot, whisk in the egg yolks, one at a time. Stir in the Roquefort and the 1/4 cup Parmesan and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Put the egg whites, cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt in the bowl of an electric mixer with the whisk attachment. Beat on low speed for 1 minute, on medium speed for 1 minute, then, finally, on high speed until they form firm, glossy peaks.

Whisk 1/4 of the egg whites into the cheese sauce to lighten, then fold in the rest. Pour into the soufflé dish, then smooth the top. Draw a large circle on top with the spatula to help the soufflé rise evenly, and place in the middle of the oven. Turn the temperature down to 375F. [Oops! I forgot this step, as my husband keeps reminding me!] Bake for 30-35 minutes (don't open the door!!) until puffed and brown. Serve immediately.


While the soufflé cooks, heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan and add the pancetta/bacon. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the fat is rendered and the pancetta is golden brown and crisp, 5-10 minutes. Remove the pancetta to a plate lined with a paper towel.

Add the Brussels sprouts, salt, and pepper to the fat in the pan and sauté over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until lightly browned. Add the raisins and chicken stock. Lower the heat and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts are tender when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes. If the skillet becomes too dry, add a little chicken stock. Return the pancetta to the pan, heat through, season to taste, and serve.

I forgot the cardinal rule when it comes to Ina recipes - reduce the salt! I'm very proud of the outcome here, but would have enjoyed it a bit more with less salt and a green salad on the side. I'm not saying that I'll be making soufflés on the regular, but at least they aren't scary now! I've had a request for a chocolate soufflé for Father's Day - I may actually try it!


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